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Alpinist Staff / June 22
Sarah Pickman / June 24
In this Tool Users story from Alpinist 78--which is now on newsstands and in our online store--Sarah Pickman traces the early development of sun protection. As Western scientists debated the cause of sunburn in the nineteenth century, she explains, some researchers "turned to a community with plenty of experience getting burned: alpinists."
Katie Ives / June 8
In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 78--which is now on newsstands and in our online store--Katie Ives explores some of the many metaphors of late-season ice. She writes: "Any ice route is a land that appears and disappears, never taking an identical shape twice, leaving ghostly outlines in climbers' memories of past forms--and posing the question of which ascent might be the last."
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BioLite AlpenGlow Lanterns: Functional mood lighting for your tent, car or campsite
Edelrid Neo 3R: A quality rope made with recycled pre-consumer materials
Black Diamond Crack Gloves have it covered from hand cracks to offwidth sizes
Sterling Ion R 9.4 XEROS rope: Every filament is dry-treated and made for the alpine
Mountain Hardwear's Phantom Down Parka: Warm, Lightweight, Compressible
Mike Lewis / June 14
Mountain Standards: IFMGA/AMGA guide Mike Lewis tested the heavy yet durable Trango Cirrus helmet. He writes: "I have first-hand experience of working for a guide service that made the mistake of purchasing a full fleet of lightweight helmets, many of which didn't make it through the first month. The Cirrus is an excellent choice for program use.... The Cirrus is built not only for top impact, like most climbing helmets, but also for side and rear impacts as well, making the Cirrus a viable option for ski-mountaineering.... Expedition mountaineers, riggers, and other users will appreciate the toughness of the Cirrus as well." Five stars.
5 out of 5 stars
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Mike Libecki
From March 19-25, 2017, Mike Libecki shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about an expedition to Greenland in 2015 to climb a remote, unclimbed peak, which he'd named the Polar Bear Fang after finding it on maps and reconnoitering the approach by boat on different trips through the years. He had tried to reach the Fang--which he is certain is in a never-before visited area--on several occasions, but he had been shut down nearly every time because of sea ice, and once because there were too many polar bears to get off the boat. On this last attempt, he'd planned to go alone, but that quickly changed.
From October 1-6, 2018, Nina Glazunov-Neverov shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about the life of her husband Sergey Glazunov, who reached a historic highpoint with Alexander Gukov on the North Ridge of Latok I (7145m) in Pakistan. During their descent, on July 25, Sergey Glazunov fell to his death. He was only 26 years old. Gukov was subsequently stranded for a week at 6200 meters before he was rescued by a dramatic helicopter operation, flown by Pakistani pilots Major Qazi Muhammad Mazhar-ud-Din, Major Abid Rafique, Lieutenant Colonel Muhammad Anjum Rafique and Major Fakhar-e-Abbas. Sergey Glazunov had often climbed with his brother Evgeniy. Glazunov-Neverov said she may take some time before she pursues serious mountaineering again. "I want to continue Sergey's hobby but I need to think about this," she said. Meanwhile, she said that Evgeniy wants to keep supporting young mountaineers in memory of his brother.
From October 16-22, 2016, Anna Piunova shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about some of her travels while working as the editor for Mountain.RU. Piunova recently helped coordinate a dramatic helicopter rescue for Alexander Gukov, who was stranded for a week at 6200 meters on the North Ridge of Latok I in Pakistan after his partner Sergey Glazunov fell to his death while rappelling. Anna lives in Moscow, Russia, and has edited Mountain.RU, the premier climbing website for Russian-language speakers, since 1999.
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